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Before you buy or adopt a puppy, read these tips to make sure your new friend is healthy.

Choosing a Healthy Puppy
The best time to acquire a puppy is at 8 to 12 weeks of age. At this age a puppy should be well socialized, will have received the first series of immunizations, and should be weaned and eating solid food. The breeder can usually make a good guess about whether a puppy is of show or breeding quality. But keep in mind that picking a future champion at 8 weeks of age is a problem, even for breeders with considerable experience.

Most puppies look healthy at first glance, but a closer inspection may make some puppies more desirable than others. Take your time and go over each puppy from head to tail before making the final decision.

Begin by examining the head. The nose should be cool and moist. Nasal discharge or frequent sneezing is a sign of poor health. Brachycephalic breeds, such as Pugs and Pekingese, often have nostrils that collapse when the dog breathes in. This is undesirable.

Check the puppy for a correct bite. The correct bite for most breeds is a scissors bite, in which the upper incisors just slightly overlap the lower ones. An even bite, in which the incisors meet edge to edge, is equally acceptable in most breeds.

The gums should be pink and healthy looking. Pale gums suggest anemia, possibly caused by intestinal parasites.

Feel for a soft spot on the dome of the skull. If present, the fontanel is open. This is not desirable. In toy breeds, an open fontanel can be associated with hydrocephalus.

The eyes should be clear and bright. If you see tear stains on the muzzle, look for eyelids that roll in or out, extra eyelashes, or conjunctivitis. The pupils should be dark and have no visible lines or white spots that may indicate congenital cataracts or retained fetal membranes. The haw (third eyelid) may be visible. This should not be taken as a sign of disease unless it is swollen and inflamed.

The ears should stand correctly for the breed, although in some breeds, such as German Shepherd Dogs, the ears may not stand up fully until 4 to 6 months of age. The tips should be healthy and well furred. Crusty tips with bare spots suggest a skin disease such as sarcoptic mange. The ear canals should be clean and sweet-smelling. A buildup of wax with a rancid odor may be caused by ear mites. Head shaking and tenderness about the ears indicate an ear canal infection.

Feel the chest with the palm of your hand to see if the heart seems especially vibrant. This could be a clue to a congenital heart defect. The puppy should breathe in and out without effort. A flat chest, especially when accompanied by trouble inhaling, indicates an airway obstruction. It is seen most commonly in brachycephalic breeds such as Pugs, Boston Terriers, and Pekingese.

A healthy coat is bright and shiny and has the correct color and markings for the breed. In long-coated breeds, the puppy coat may be fluffy and soft without a lot of shine. Excess scratching and areas of inflamed skin suggest fleas, mites, or other skin parasites. “Moth-eaten” areas of hair loss are typical of mange and ringworm.

Next, examine the puppy for soundness and correct structure. The legs should be straight and well formed. Structural faults include legs that bow in or out, weak pasterns (the area between the wrist and the foot), flat feet with spread toes, and feet that toe in at the rear. Two inherited bone and joint diseases that may be present in puppies younger than 4 months of age (but are usually not discernable on puppy selection exams) are canine hip dysplasia and patella luxation. Certification of the puppy’s sire and dam by the OFA, PennHIP, or GDC is highly desirable in breeds with a high incidence of these diseases.

The puppy’s gait should be free and smooth. A limp or faltering gait may simply be the result of a sprain or a hurt pad, but hip dysplasia and patella luxation should be considered and ruled out. Patellas can be examined at this age, but this should only be done by an experienced breeder or veterinarian.

Inking for a Cause: Michigan Tattoo Parlor Donates Money From Animal-Themed Tattoos to Local Animal Shelter

Read more about how a Tattoo parlor got creative to raise money for a local spay and neuter clinic!

Animal overpopulation continues to be a major issue that plagues much of the world — and in the United States, this results in millions of unwanted cats and dogs ending up on the streets, in animal shelters or even euthanized due to many pet owners not realizing the benefits of neutering your pet and the benefits of spaying your pet.

To help support cat and dog spay and neuter clinics, the tattoo artists at Flint Township’s Custom Ink and Tattoo in Michigan recently raised money in a truly unique way — $25 from each animal-themed tattoo the artists gave on Sunday, Nov. 16 went directly to a local no-kill shelter to help support local spay and neuter programs.

“I wanted to get others involved who may not normally be involved in animal rescue,” Sloane Slagg, director of Kreacher Konnections, the shelter that Custom Ink and Tattoo is benefiting, said.

Customers at Custom Ink and Tattoo got tattoos ranging from their dogs’ pawprints to a doodle of a cat, according to an MLive.com article. As long as the tattoo related back to pets or animals in some way, Custom Ink and Tattoo would donate the $25 to Kreacher Konnections.

The only way to prevent unwanted stray and feral pets is to bring one’s pets to a cat or dog spay and neuter clinic, and this is just one of the reasons why you should spay and neuter your pets. Spaying and neutering also offers a number of health benefits to pets, such as preventing cancer, extending their life spans and improving their behavior.

Tiffany Daniels, the Kreacher Konnections volunteer who organized the event at Custom Ink and Tattoo, told MLive.com that she wanted to hold the event to help the animal rescue cause and ultimately ensure as many pets as possible can find a loving home.

“Hopefully it prevents more unwanted pets with spay and neuter,” said Daniels, who also got a tattoo at the event.
Read more about how a Tattoo parlor got creative to raise money for a local spay and neuter clinic!

Long Beach, CA to Move Forward With Spay-Neuter Law for Dogs

On Tuesday, Nov. 18, city council members in Long Beach, CA discussed a new plan that would instate a city-wide spay and neuter requirement for residents who own dogs.

According to a Grunion Gazette article, the city council’s plan, proposed by Second District Councilwoman and Vice Mayor Suja Lowenthal, would require all dog owners to bring their pets to a dog spay and neuter clinic, with the exception of licensed breeders and dog owners who have a medical waiver for their pets.

Why spay and neuter your pets — and more importantly, why should Long Beach pass a universal spay and neuter requirement for its dog owners? The importance of spaying and neutering your pet has long been proven by scientific research. Taking one’s dog to a dog spay and neuter clinic extends their lifespan, prevents cancer and makes the pet better behaved.

Pet overpopulation also remains a problem across the country, which is another concern of Long Beach’s local lawmakers. Each year, millions of unwanted puppies and kittens wind up in animal shelters, and more often than not these pets are euthanized.

To combat these issues and control its animal population, the Long Beach city council originally passed measures in 2007 that expanded the number of affordable spay and neuter clinics, along with requirements for microchipping and cat licensing. However, in the seven years since then, the city council hasn’t seen much of an improvement.

“We’ve been working on this going on seven years now,” Lowenthal said. “We’ve introduced low-cost spay and neuter services. We’ve hired a full-time veterinarian. We’ve made strides, but we’re finding it’s still not enough. … The majority of the dogs that are picked up are unaltered, or from back yard puppy mills… We have to focus on the faucet, not the drain, to solve this issue.”

According to the Grunion Gazette, Long Beach already requires all cats to be spayed or neutered. The city council will make its final vote on the proposal in 90 days.

Normal play vs. aggressive tendencies in Puppies

Many owners begin their relationship with new puppies armed with misinformation and an idealistic view of the pet-owner relationship. Owners often don’t know how to properly shape behaviors or handle problems, and one area that needs special attention is play aggression.

PUPPIES CAN PLAY ROUGH

Most puppy play consists of chasing, pouncing, barking, growling, snapping, and biting. So how can new owners tell the difference between normal play and possible signs of true aggression in puppies?

In normal play, a puppy may play bow (lower its head and raise its hind end), present its front end or side to the owner, hold the front part of its body up, wag its tail, dart back and forth, emit high-pitched barks and growls, and spontaneously attack. Of course, even normal play can become too intense.

Behaviors that may indicate a problem are prolonged, deep-tone growling; a fixed gaze; a stiff posture; and aggression that is situational or stimulus-dependent (not spontaneous). These aggressive behaviors may be related to fear, possessiveness, conflict, or pain and necessitate immediate evaluation by you or a behavior expert.

PLAY BEHAVIOR INTERVENTION

Puppies must learn how to play appropriately, so suggest these forms of intervention for your clients.

> Distract the bad behavior. Always have a toy on hand that the puppy can transfer its attention to.

> Speak up and step out. If the puppy is biting hard, yell “Ouch!” and stop playing.

> Interrupt problem behaviors. A shake can, a water gun, or compressed air will startle puppies and stop the behavior. But don’t use these techniques if a pet has a sensitive temperament or if the techniques seem to make things worse.

> Set up a dragline. Both indoors and outdoors, make sure the puppy is on a leash that you can quickly grab to stop the behavior.

> Use head halters. These halters provide a more natural sense of control than ordinary collars do and limit the chances of biting.

> Consider muzzles. In extreme cases, muzzles may be used for short periods to prevent biting.

> Give the puppy a time out. If the puppy won’t stop the bad behavior, put the puppy in a room or in its kennel with toys to keep it busy until it calms down.

PREVENT INAPPROPRIATE PLAY

In addition, offering owners these tips on interacting with, socializing, and training their puppies may help prevent abnormal play aggression.

> Provide plenty of exercise. Puppies are bundles of energy, so give them productive ways to expend that energy, such as going on walks or playing “Monkey in the middle” (see sidebar).

> Provide mental stimulation. Rubber toys that can be filled with treats, such as Kong toys or Busy Buddy puzzle toys (Premier), offer puppies a chance to chase and bite the toys and obtain a food reward.

> Play with your pup. Playing fetch or throwing a soccer ball for the puppy to push around saps some of its energy.

> Teach and review basic obedience commands. A well-trained dog is more likely to follow orders when behaving inappropriately.

> Conduct leadership exercises. Follow these rules to maintain overall order: 1) Nothing in life is free. Ask the pet to respond to a command such as “sit” before the pet receives anything it wants or needs. 2) Don’t tell me what to do. Do not allow the pet to be pushy about soliciting attention from you. Pull your hands in, lean away, and look away from the pet if it nudges, whines, barks, leans, or pushes for attention. Walk away if the pet is too difficult to ignore. Once the pet stops soliciting attention for 10 seconds, ask the pet to sit and give it attention. 3) Don’t move without permission. Anytime you begin to move from one area of the home to another, ask the pet to sit and stay for a second or two before you give a release command to follow you.

> Don’t sit on the floor with the pup. This tends to get puppies excited, puts family members in a vulnerable position, and makes it more difficult to control the pet.

> Promote socialization. Puppies must have frequent, positive social experiences with all types of animals and people during the first three or four months of life to prevent asocial behavior, fear, and biting. And continued exposure to a variety of people and animals as the pets grow is essential for maintaining good social skills.

WHAT NOT TO DO

Be sure that the family is not using any physically punitive methods such as scruff shakes, alpha rollovers, squeezing the pet to the floor, thumping the nose, or swatting.

PROVIDE BEHAVIOR ADVICE WITHOUT DELAY

Whatever you do in the way of counseling new pet owners, remember that providing behavior information from the outset can make a big difference in the relationship between the pet and the owner. Owners need reliable help to weed out conflicting and inappropriate training information, and behavior problems are much easier to prevent than to correct.

Everybody wins when we take the time and effort to provide timely behavior counseling. The owner is more likely to have a well-behaved pet, we are more likely to have a manageable patient, and the pet is more likely to remain an important part of the family.

 

Wayne L. Hunthausen, DVM, Animal Behavior Consultations, 4820 Rainbow Blvd. Westwood, KS 66205.

 

 

Monkey in the middle: An exercise in obedience

This game not only exercises energetic puppies, it also reinforces the basic commands of “sit” and “come,” enhances name recognition, and teaches puppies to run up and sit to get attention (instead of jumping on people). At least two people are needed, and each person should have six to 12 small treats (regular puppy dinner kibble is usually adequate) at hand.

The two people sit opposite each other with about five to six feet in between. The first person calls “Skippy, come” in a high—pitched, upbeat voice. As the approaches, the first person has the puppy sit for a treat. Immediately, the second person calls ‘Skippy, come” in a high—pitched, upbeat voice and has the puppy sit for a treat. Immediately, the first person calls again and has the puppy sit for a treat, and so on.

The distance between the two people can increase as the puppy becomes accustomed to the game —the people can even move into separate rooms, increasing the strength of the “come” command and the exertion needed to obtain a treat.

10 Thanksgiving Foods Dangerous for Your Dog

Thanksgiving is a time for families to get together, give thanks, eat wonderful food and then pass out in front of the TV watching football. It’s also a great time for clever dogs to sneak off with the trimmings.

While tossing your dog a carrot or two, or even a piece of cooked turkey here and there, won’t be too harmful (here’s a list of more safe foods), some other Thanksgiving goodies are bad for him.

You should not give your dog the following 10 foods on Thanksgiving – or any other day, for that matter.

 

1. Bones

It seems counterintuitive, but bones are bad for dogs. Carmela Stamper, DVM, a veterinarian in the FDA’s Center for Veterinary Medicine, said, “Bones are unsafe, no matter what their size. Giving your dog a bone may make your pet a candidate for a trip to your veterinarian’s office later, possible emergency surgery or even death. Make sure you throw out bones from your own meals in a way that your dog can’t get to them.”

 

2. Raw or undercooked turkey

Turkey Day’s main dish is dangerous for one reason: salmonella bacteria. Even though you may believe your dog’s stomach is iron-clad, it’s not.

 

3. Turkey skin

Seems harmless enough, right? It’s just the skin. But fatty foods like turkey skin and gravy are difficult for dogs to digest. Your dog’s pancreas can even become inflamed, resulting in pancreatitis, a very serious disease. Turkey skin isn’t good for you, either, so it’s best to throw it away and make more room for the mashed potatoes and gravy.

 

4. Dough and cake batter

It may sound like an urban legend, but the combination of raw dough and your dog’s body heat can actually cause the dough to rise inside his stomach. This will make your dog vomit while suffering severe abdominal pain and bloating. Not to mention that the batter used in cakes and pies has raw eggs, which could contain salmonella bacteria. If you’re making a cake or pie, make sure your dog is not in the kitchen, and clean up any scraps or droppings that hit the floor right away.

 

5. Beer

Some dogs love beer, but this doesn’t mean you should share a cold one with your dog. It can really do a number on your dog’s stomach. Depending on how much he consumes, the hops can cause your dog to have a fever, rapid heartbeat, seizures and liver damage. It can even be lethal.

 

6. Macadamia nuts

These nuts in particular are very bad for your dog. In fact, they could cause a reaction called macadamia nut toxicosis. The symptoms range from lethargy and vomiting to your dog being unable to stand up.

 

7. Mushrooms

Fungi are good for you, but bad for your dog. Should your dog ingest mushrooms, you can expect a slew of unwelcome symptoms that could become quite severe, including vomiting, seizures, coma and possibly death.

 

8. Onions and garlic

These two culprits are always on the list of foods your dog should not eat, and for very good reason: they can make your dog very sick. Both onions and garlic contain sulfides, which are toxic to dogs and can cause the destruction of red blood cells, leading to anemia.

 

9. Sage

This multi-purpose herb is used in countless recipes and for cleansing a new home, but for dogs, sage is bad. It contains essential oils and resins that can upset a dog’s stomach and do a number on his central nervous system.

 

10. Nutmeg

Nutmeg is a sneaky spice. Found in sweet potatoes, yams, pumpkin pie and most desserts, nutmeg has mild hallucinogenic properties that, when ingested by your dog, can cause seizures, tremors and central nervous system problems. Note that both pumpkin and sweet potatoes are good for your dog; just make sure no nutmeg is on them before you share them.

Chocolate is also very, very bad for dogs. It’s not on the list because it should be a given for every pet parent: Never feed your dog chocolate.

The best way to keep your dog safe is to have plenty of his food on hand, as well as treats. Ask your guests not to feed your dog human food. Also make sure your dog gets lots of exercise. A tired dog is a good dog.

 

Are Dogs Really Color Blind?

If you think the answer is “yes,” you are wrong! Modern science has answered this age-old question: Dogs can see color, but not in the same way that we do. The palette of colors they can see is limited in comparison to ours; it is also less vibrant.

Eyes have “rods” and “cones” to help identify color. Rods tell us how bright or dim something is (black or white) and cones help us identify color. Humans have three kinds of cones, which help detect yellow, violet, and green.

Dogs only have two types of cones, so they see orange, yellow, and green as yellow. Blue-green is seen as white and red looks as though it is brownish-black. While they can see blue, they can’t distinguish shades, especially as the color blue gets darker. To learn more about how dogs see color, check out the “Canine Corner” blog on Psychology Today’s website.

10 Things To Do If Your Pet Is Lost

Nearly one in five lost pets goes missing after being scared by the sound of fireworks, thunderstorms or other loud noises, according to a survey by The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. And, while losing your pet can be a traumatic experience for both you and your pet, have hope as 93 percent of dogs and 75 percent of cats reported lost are returned safely to their homes, according to another survey.

If you do lose your pet, here are 10 top tips to help reunite you with your furry friend as quickly as possible:

  1. File a lost pet report with every shelter and animal control office within a 60-mile radius of your home and visit the nearest shelters daily, if possible.
  2. Get the word out to all veterinarians in the area. Sometimes people pick up a stray and drive it to a distant clinic.
  3. Walk or drive through your neighborhood several times each day. Enlist friends and family to help. Hand out a recent photograph of your pet and your contact information.
  4. Speak with your neighbors. The more people know you have lost a pet and that you are desperately trying to find your pet, the more people will call you if they see a loose animal.
  5. Place flyers in the neighborhood and public places. To avoid scams, when describing your pet, leave out one characteristic and ask the person who finds your pet to describe it.
  6. Post about your pet on all pet recovery web-sites and services. Sites such as Craigslist.org,  TheCenterForLostPets.com and FidoFinder.com broadcast your missing pet quickly.
  7. Consider a lost pet recovery service. There are numerous lost pet alert services that will contact homes, veterinarians, shelters and animal control organizations for a reasonable fee.
  8. Place food and water outside your home. Your pets may return to your home when they get hungry or thirsty. Consider placing food in a humane pet trap to capture them.
  9. Tell everyone you see about your pet and ask them to keep their eyes open. The more people you alert, the greater the chance someone will recollect seeing your pet in their area.
  10. Don’t give up. Be aggressive in your search, get lots of help and get the word out right away. You need those early hours to put up posters and start your search.

Remember, Puppies Are A Responsibility

Remember, Puppies Are A Responsibility

It’s Puppy Awareness Week, and all of those oh-so-adorable pictures on your Facebook news feed has inspired you to get a pup of your own. Not so fast. Before committing to years’ worth of responsibility, take a step back to consider what you’ll need, if and when you do choose to get a puppy. Here are some of the basics.

 

Pick Up A Crate For Your Puppy Training!

There’s a very good chance that, when you pick your new puppy up, he or she will not be house trained — and he or she will not be neutered or spayed, either. This is a relatively normal struggle, and you can make your life a whole lot easier by using a crate to housetrain your puppy!

While these are necessarily tools for the first couple of months, that doesn’t mean it’s okay for you to neglect house training your new puppy — and it especially doesn’t give you a free pass when it comes to getting he or she neutered or spayed. The importance of spaying and neutering your pet can not be stressed enough. If you are wondering when to spay your dog, the best time is as soon as you can, and definitely before sexual maturity at roughly six to 12 months of age. Take your new puppy to an affordable spay and neuter.

If you plan your puppy’s arrival when there is sufficient time to socialize and housetrain it, your puppy will learn faster and more likely grow into an adult dog you’ll enjoy. If your area offers puppy classes, they are a great way to socialize your new companion and help it learn some basic commands.

 

Don’t Forget Chew Toys

Before bringing your new dog home, have ready the necessary accessories such as a collar and leash, ID tag, food, and water bowls. Provide your dog with a variety of toys to prevent him from playing with your socks and shoes, your morning paper, or your child’s favorite doll. Get some toys that you and your dog can play with together, such as balls and plush toys, and some things to keep him busy when he’s alone, such as chewies or rope bones.

 

 

5 Ways to Enrich Your Cat’s Environment

Although cats have long been housed indoors to protect them from the dangers of the outdoor environment, such as infectious agents and physical trauma, this is a fairly recent cultural development in North America. In fact, indoor “captivity” can be hazardous to cats if their environmental needs are not met.

The following list is not all-inclusive, but examines 5 general ways to enrich an indoor cat’s environment:

Enhance Basic Resources
Provide Ample Physical Space
Offer Outlets for Normal Behavior
Respect Social Interaction Limits
Facilitate Sensory Stimulation
Check out this PDF for detailed information

Feline_Environmental_Enrichment